Sewing and Pattern Cutting

How to Sew Inseam Pockets:
I love to sew and as I was sewing a piece for my online store (Abbys Art Atelier) I thought I would share how to sew a inseam pockets.  You will need some sewing experience and a skirt or trouser pattern cut and sewn with the dart if required are in and no further.


1. 

Once you have your skirt or trouser sew the pocket bag to the side seam of the skirt where the pattern has notched where it should be placed. And repeat this on the side of both front pieces and and back pieces if required on both sides if not just one back and one front. 




 2.
Then on the right side sew along the side of the seam with the seam allowance on the wring side pushed towards the pocket bag.  This is under-stitching.  Again repeat for all pocket bags.




 3.
Then pin together the front and back like a normal side seam but this time move the bag to the side and and pin around that too. 

Then starting from the top of the skirt or trouser and sew down to where to pocket bag start and then stop. With the needle down turn the skirt so the direction is going towards the pocket bag and follow around the bag edge keeping to the seam allowance. Once the bag in sewn turn the skirt so the direction is continued down towards the seam and continue as normal. 

Then iron the seam open. 

And job done you have an inseam pocket! 




Pattern Cutting: Kimono Sleeve:

So the other day I was pattern cutting a Kimono Sleeve and I thought this might be nice to share its not the easiest pattern to draft but at the same time its not as complex as I might seem, I was doing it for practise and for a personal project. 

So before we start I recommend having at least the basics of pattern cutting down understanding the basic nature of how pattern cutting works

I am using a bodice block. You will need Front and Back Bodice, these should have a waist and shoulder dart, if yours doesn't and has a waist and bust dart you will need to move the bust dart to the shoulder. If you are unaware of how to do this here is a link 
(https://fashioncrazy-abby.blogspot.com/2019/01/pattern-cutting-moving-shoulder-darts.html) to the post where I explained how to move darts or if you are on the Sewing Page it will be underneath this post. 
I am also using a sleeve block, you will need this also or to draft your own ( if you are drafting your own do not at more than 2cm ease) which is whole other blog post which I might get around to doing one day.

I know there seems like there is a lot of steps but I have broken it down in to lots of little steps rather than a few big and confusing ones.

Right so here we go...


Step 1:
First you need to get your sleeve and cut the it half with a little cut away from the left and right at the top.  Label the left side as and back and right side as front. 

Step 2:
Cut around the bodice front and back armhole and shoulder just to make the following steps easier.




Step 3:
Starting with the back match the top of the sleeve cap to the corner of the shoulder seam the bottom on the corner of the sleeve should meet the side seam just below the underarm armhole. Stick it down with tape. Not too much though as you may need to adjust or move in a later step.

Repeat this for the front. And then measure the side seams to wear the sleeve meets the side the front should be shorter than the back. 
Note these down on the side seams so you do not forget them, you will need them in the next step.





 Close ups:



Measuring:


Step 4:
Though it is correct the front side seam will be shorter than the back it must be made so it isn't shorter, so it will sew correctly. 
Take the back side seam measurements from earlier and mark this on the front bodice side seam. 
You can see in my I made the back was 14.4cm. You can see where I have marked the 17.6cm on the front side seam which was the length of the back side seam.



Step 5:
Move the corner of the sleeve to the back measurement in my case 17.6cm mark. This will make the sleeve cap go above the shoulder seam. So to fix that Cut down the dart line closest to the armhole and cut diagonally through the armhole to meet the dart point but do not cut so far that it splits.  Pivot the dart to make it smaller until the cap and shoulder seam once again match. 

 The line to cut down:




Step 6:
For both the front and back place a piece of paper underneath to fill the gap, this is simply because you will need to add lines and markings and the paper will make this possible.
Step 7:
On the back bodice, draw a line from the shoulder seam where the sleeve cap meets down past the side seam to where the corner of the sleeve and side seam meet. Label this line the Pivot Line.




Step 8:
Make a mark on the pivot line that is 2cm down from the shoulder seam. 
This is the pivot point.


Step 9:
From the original armhole down the original side seam mark 6.5cm. 
Step 10:
Cut up the pivot line and stop at the pivot point and then cut down from the top to the pivot point. Make sure you do not sever it.







Step 11:
Now pivot the sleeve down so the side of the sleeve to the 6.5cm mark and stick down. 






Step 12:
Now repeat this for the front bodice form step 7.

Step 13:
On the back bodice, square off the line from the original underarm armhole/side seam towards the pivot line stopping 7mm short of it. 



Step 14:
Next draw a diagonal line from the one you just made to the 6.5cm mark from earlier where the side seam and sleeve now meet and are stuck down. The triangle that this creates is the back gusset.
And front gusset when repeating.  


Step 15: 
Repeat for front from step 13.

Step 16:
On a separate piece of paper draw two lines to made a cross with 90 degree corners.  Trace of the back gusset on to the top left and bottom left of the cross and the same for the front but on the opposite side. 




So thats basically it. Now it's up to you to play with it as you will, do you want the sleeves wider? Longer? Shorter? It's up to you I made mine shorter and wider. 


Let me know if you found this helpful or if you would like some computer diagrams. And if you did would you like me to post how to sew it together? 




Pattern Cutting: Moving Shoulder Darts


Bodice Front:

Step 1
Draw a line from the point of the dart horizontal into the arm hole.



Step 2
Cut along the line to the point but stop just 1mm short of it

Step 3
Cut up the right line of the front dart again to the point but just short so the paper is still attached.


Step 4
Pivot the loose piece of paper to the top closing the shoulder dart and matching up the shoulder seam line.




Step 5
Stick down the now closed dart. This has opened up a bust dart stick a piece of paper underneath where the new dart is. Draw along the lines of the dart to make them clearer.


Step 6
This step I wouldn't normally do until I have traced it of but for the this post the next step is:
Fold along the line of the new dart and meet it with the second line of the dart making sure the dart is closed making sure the armhole line is now matching, cut along that line and then open back up the dart. This will make the shape of dart bottom. Again I would do this step until you have traced the master but it doesn't matter that much.









Bodice Back

Step 1
Draw a line from the right line of the bottom dart to the point of the shoulder




Step 2
Cut up the line to the top point of the bottom dart, the cut down from the shoulder dart to the point of the bottom dart but making sure not to cut it apart.




Step 3
With the tiny bit that is still attached pivot the paper closing the shoulder dart and stick it down. 

Step 4
Then redraw the shoulder seam making sure it matches and is straight.
























Step 5
 Next stick a piece of paper under the bottom dart where there is a gap. Then draw in the new line of the dart.


Step 6
This step I wouldn't normally do until I have traced it of but for the this post the next step is:
Fold along the line of the new bigger dart and meet it with the second line of the dart making sure the dart is closed making sure the bottom line is now matching, cut along that line and then open back up the dart. This will make the shape of dart bottom. Again I would do this step until you have traced the master but it doesn't matter that much.





























Sewing: Making A Halter Neck Summer Dress
I pattern cut the top from a basic bodice block by drawing the style lines on and made a half circle skirt from a waist measurement. I bagged out the top and hand sewn it down inside as well as the hem. I bound the seams inside. I used a binding from john lewis it wasn't the best quality I think I would make my own next time or  use the same as I did for the ribbon and loops.
I made my ribbon and and loops from a binding for a lace up back and zip down the back of the skirt.


















No comments:

Post a comment