Monday, 28 January 2019

Pattern Cutting: Moving Shoulder Darts

So I was about to crack on with some pattern cutting, and the block I use when I am not draping has shoulder darts (I'm not a fan of the shoulder darts) so I was to take them. But them I thought why not photograph and share it on here for anyone who isn't sure.

Bodice Front:

Step 1
Draw a line from the point of the dart horizontal into the arm hole.




Step 2
Cut along the line to the point but stop just 1mm short of it

Step 3
Cut up the right line of the front dart again to the point but just short so the paper is still attached.


Step 4
Pivot the loose piece of paper to the top closing the shoulder dart and matching up the shoulder seam line.




Step 5
Stick down the now closed dart. This has opened up a bust dart stick a piece of paper underneath where the new dart is. Draw along the lines of the dart to make them clearer.


Step 6
This step I wouldn't normally do until I have traced it of but for the this post the next step is:
Fold along the line of the new dart and meet it with the second line of the dart making sure the dart is closed making sure the armhole line is now matching, cut along that line and then open back up the dart. This will make the shape of dart bottom. Again I would do this step until you have traced the master but it doesn't matter that much.











Bodice Back

Step 1
Draw a line from the right line of the bottom dart to the point of the shoulder



Step 2
Cut up the line to the top point of the bottom dart, the cut down from the shoulder dart to the point of the bottom dart but making sure not to cut it apart.





Step 3
With the tiny bit that is still attached pivot the paper closing the shoulder dart and stick it down. 

Step 4
Then redraw the shoulder seam making sure it matches and is straight.


























Step 5
 Next stick a piece of paper under the bottom dart where there is a gap. Then draw in the new line of the dart.



Step 6
This step I wouldn't normally do until I have traced it of but for the this post the next step is:
Fold along the line of the new bigger dart and meet it with the second line of the dart making sure the dart is closed making sure the bottom line is now matching, cut along that line and then open back up the dart. This will make the shape of dart bottom. Again I would do this step until you have traced the master but it doesn't matter that much.

























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